Closed comedones — what they are and how to fight them

Closed comedones are one of the most common forms of non-inflammatory acne, which can occur at any age, both in teenagers and in adults. They are often confused with subcutaneous pimples, although the mechanism of their formation and their appearance are different. They are a signal that the sebaceous glands are not working properly and that the skin requires more careful care.

What are closed comedones

Closed comedones are small subcutaneous lesions that form as a result of pores becoming clogged with sebum and keratinized cells. They do not become inflamed, but they can cause aesthetic discomfort and potentially develop into more serious forms of acne. Early recognition and proper care help to avoid complications and keep the skin clean and healthy. The main cause of closed comedones is the build-up of sebum, dead skin cells and impurities in the pores. Because there is no opening to the outside, the pores close and a dense mass forms inside them — a so-called "closed" sebaceous plug. Since it has no contact with air, it does not darken, unlike open comedones (blackheads), but remains light beneath a thin layer of skin. Closed comedones are not just a cosmetic flaw. If they are not treated in time, or if the skin is not properly cleansed, they may eventually become inflamed, forming pimples and even deep subcutaneous inflammation. Closed comedones particularly often appear on the forehead, cheeks, chin and the T-zone of the face, and they can also appear on the back and chest. The appearance of such a problem is a sign that the skin requires a comprehensive approach (appropriate care, gentle cleansing, normalisation of the sebaceous glands and, if necessary, treatment by a dermatologist or cosmetologist). Fighting them often requires time, consistency and a skillful choice of cosmetics.

Causes of closed comedones

Closed comedones are not only the result of poor skin cleansing, but also the outcome of a complex interplay of external and internal factors. They can appear even in people who take careful care of their skin, and they may indicate a hormonal imbalance in the body or a skin reaction to certain irritants. Understanding the causes of comedones on the face is the key to effective treatment and prevention. The main causes of subcutaneous comedones include:

1. Overactive sebaceous glands. When the skin produces too much sebum (skin oil), it accumulates in the pores and mixes with keratinized cells — this creates ideal conditions for a comedone to form.
2. Hormonal changes. Fluctuations in hormone levels during puberty, pregnancy, the menstrual cycle, or due to endocrine disorders often cause subcutaneous comedones to form.
3. Improper skin care. Using cosmetics with comedogenic ingredients, aggressive cleansing, insufficient moisturising or skipping the makeup removal step can contribute to clogged pores.
4. Poor diet. An excess of fatty, fried, sweet foods, as well as dairy products, has a negative effect on the skin and can trigger breakouts.
5. Chronic stress. Constant nervous tension disrupts the hormonal balance and stimulates the production of cortisol, which provokes excessive sebum secretion.
6. Hyperkeratosis. This is a disruption of the process of shedding dead skin cells. If they accumulate on the surface of the epidermis, they form dense plugs that clog the pores.
7. Use of heavy colour cosmetics. Foundations, powders and other products that are not completely washed off or that contain silicones often become a cause of comedones.
8. Genetic predisposition. If the family has a tendency toward oily skin and acne, the likelihood of comedones appearing increases.

Understanding these causes makes it possible not only to choose the right treatment for closed comedones, but also to prevent them from reappearing. A comprehensive approach, including a dermatological consultation, lifestyle adjustments and skillful skin care, is the most effective path to a clear face. If comedones on the face become a constant problem, you should not ignore the body's signals — perhaps the skin requires deeper intervention or changes to your habitual care rituals.

How to tell closed comedones apart from other types of breakouts (acne, pimples)

Closed comedones are often confused with other types of breakouts — pimples, whiteheads, acne or open comedones. Visually, these lesions may look similar, yet they have different origins, courses and require a different approach to care. Understanding exactly what the breakout on your face is is the first step toward proper treatment and prevention. Closed comedones are small subcutaneous bumps that have no opening to the outside. They are usually not painful, do not become inflamed right away and do not contain pus. Such comedones form when a pore becomes completely clogged with a mixture of sebum and keratinized cells but has no contact with air. That is why they are also called “whiteheads” or “milia.” Unlike closed ones, open comedones have a dark tip — this is the result of the sebaceous secretion oxidizing on contact with air. Such blackheads often appear in the T-zone (on the nose, forehead, chin). They are easier to remove with proper skin cleansing, but they tend to recur. Acne and pimples are inflammatory processes. They can be painful, red, filled with pus or have a nodular structure. They often appear against the background of hormonal disorders, infections, as well as in response to irritation or mechanical damage to the skin. Closed comedones can, over time, develop into acne if an infection gets into them or an inflammatory process begins. Determining the type of breakout is important for choosing the right care strategy. For example, products that effectively clear pores of open comedones may be ineffective for closed ones. And treating acne requires an antibacterial or anti-inflammatory approach, which is not needed for non-inflammatory comedones. Therefore, with any suspicious changes on the skin, it is best to consult a dermatologist or cosmetologist.

How to treat closed comedones

The only correct way to get rid of closed comedones is a comprehensive approach. It includes:

1. Gentle but deep skin cleansing. Washing should be regular but not aggressive — with gels or foams free of sulfates and alcohol. It is recommended to use a Phytogel for acne and comedones — a product based on natural ingredients that not only clears the pores but also reduces the risk of inflammation.
2. Peels and exfoliation. Twice a week, use acid products with AHA or BHA acids (glycolic, salicylic). They dissolve the sebaceous plugs and renew the upper layer of the skin.
3. The AcneClear Set for active anti-acne and anti-comedone care. It contains products for daily use that have an anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating effect, and also promote the gradual clearing of pores.
4. Pharmacy or professional products with retinoids. They normalise the keratinization process of the epidermis and prevent clogged pores. They should be used under the supervision of a dermatologist.
5. In-office treatments. In difficult cases, a cosmetologist may recommend ultrasonic cleansing, galvanotherapy or microdermabrasion — this helps to remove deep comedones without damaging the skin.
6. Lifestyle adjustments. It is important to pay attention to your diet, avoid excessive consumption of sweets and fats, and carefully choose non-comedogenic cosmetics.

Treating closed comedones is a gradual process that requires patience and consistency. Using well-chosen products, such as the Phytogel for acne and comedones or the AcneClear Set, allows you to notice positive changes after just three weeks.

How to prevent closed comedones

Given what comedones are, it is better to prevent them from forming by:

• regularly cleansing the skin twice a day with mild gels or foams free of aggressive ingredients that do not dry out the skin;
• using non-comedogenic cosmetics;
• using acid peels or gentle scrubs that help exfoliate keratinized cells and improve skin renewal;
• reducing the amount of simple carbohydrates, dairy products and fatty foods, which can intensify the work of the sebaceous glands;
• regularly changing pillowcases and towels and disinfecting gadgets (items that frequently come into contact with the face can transfer bacteria and contribute to the development of inflammation);
• protecting the skin from UV radiation — sunscreens prevent the thickening of the stratum corneum, which can contribute to clogged pores;
• drinking an adequate amount of water and avoiding drying out the skin — this helps regulate sebum production;
• visiting a cosmetologist or dermatologist regularly, especially if the skin is prone to breakouts.

Closed comedones rarely disappear on their own, which is why skillful prevention is the best solution. With systematic care and an attentive approach to your skin, you can prevent not only the formation of comedones but also the further development of acne.